{"id":3538,"date":"2022-01-11T19:04:03","date_gmt":"2022-01-11T19:04:03","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/amigurumireceitas.com\/?p=3538"},"modified":"2022-06-07T11:47:18","modified_gmt":"2022-06-07T10:47:18","slug":"crochet-minion-rush-free-pdf-amigurumi-pattern","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/amigurumireceitas.com\/en\/crochet-minion-rush-free-pdf-amigurumi-pattern\/","title":{"rendered":"Crochet Minion Rush Free PDF Amigurumi Pattern"},"content":{"rendered":"

\"Crochet<\/p>\n

Hello everyone friends,
\nToday I brought you a very special amigurumi pattern<\/a><\/span><\/strong>. First of all, I would like to thank the owner of the pattern. The free amigurumi pattern<\/a><\/span><\/strong> is a bit long, so it may not be ideal for beginners. Minion rush amigurumi pattern, thanks to detailed step by step<\/strong> pattern instructions and visuals explaining how to make it, amigurumi lovers will love this pattern. You can complete the crochet minion rush amigurumi pattern and present it to your children. I translated the pattern myself, so there may be minor errors, you can report them to us or the owner of the pattern. Now I leave you alone with the crochet minion rush amigurumi pattern. Stay tuned for more free crochet Minion Rush amigurumi pattern<\/p>\n

Crochet Minion Rush Free PDF Amigurumi Pattern<\/span><\/h2>\n

Designer:<\/strong> @cozypuppet<\/span><\/p>\n

The Minion is achroximately 40 cm tall and 19 cm in diameter.<\/p>\n

Abbreviations<\/span><\/h3>\n

MR: Magic ring
\nsc: Single Crochet
\ninc: Increase
\ndec: Decrease
\ntr: Triple Crochet\/ Treble Crochet
\nst: Stitch
\ndc: Dodecle Crochet
\nhdc: Half Dodecle Crochet
\nslst: Slip Stitch
\nch: Chain
\n..in: make increase into same stitch as many as the number which is given in front of \u201cinc\u201d abbreviation (exp; 3inc, 4inc..).
\nFLO: Crochet into front loops only
\nBLO: Crochet into back loops only
\nBO: Bobble stitch<\/p>\n

Materials<\/span><\/h3>\n

Yarn YarnArt Jeans
\n17 (dark jeans)- 1 skein
\n49 (light gray)- 1 skein
\n88 (pale yellow)- 2 skeins
\n62 (white)- 1 skein
\n53 (black)- 1 skein
\nWhite, black and gray, of course, you need a little.
\n1mm solid felt in white, black, red and blue (matching the color of the overalls) colors.
\nFiller (synthetic fluff, sinteshar). Since the yarn is thin and the volume is large, it is very important to use quality filler so that the packing can be uniform.
\nWire for the arm frame, masking tape or electrical tape.
\nEyes on a secure mount. I used a 10mm diameter, but tied the iris with brown yarn to increase the diameter to 18-20mm.
\nplastic for soles, plastic bottle for glasses.
\nNeedles for sewing on parts, pins for fixing parts and trying on, scissors, glue Moment gel.
\nTwo buttons for overalls.
\nBelt or regular tape for glasses (you can just tie the cord).
\nAnd I almost forgot about the most important tool – the 3 mm hook.<\/p>\n

\"Crochet<\/p>\n

Legs<\/span><\/h3>\n

We begin to crocheting with black yarn from the boots, the hook is 3 mm.<\/p>\n

1 row<\/span>– we collect a chain of 12 air loops
\n2 row<\/span>– we begin to knit from the 3rd loop from the hook 9 sc, 4 sc in one loop, on the other side of the chain 8 sc, inc (24)
\n3 row<\/span>– mark the beginning of the row with a marker, knit in a spiral inc, 5 sc, 2 hdc, 2 dc, 4 inc from dc, 2 dc, 2 hdc, 5 sc, inc (30)
\n4 row<\/span>– 1 sc, inc, 13 sc, 2 inc, 12 sc, inc (34)
\nWe circle the resulting sole on paper for cutting out the insoles in the future.
\n5 row<\/span>– 34 sc for the back wall (34)
\n6 row<\/span>– 34 sc (34)
\n7 row<\/span>– 8 sc, 2 dec, 12 sc, 2 dec, 6 sc (30)
\n8 row<\/span>– 10 sc, 6 dec, 8 sc (24)
\n9 row<\/span>– 24 sc (24)
\nCut out the insole from the plastic according to the previously outlined pattern. We insert it into the boot, adjust it to size, if necessary. The insole should not be larger than the sole so that the boot does not bend. As a material, you can take lids, thin cutting boards. I often use unnecessary discount and accumulative cards of stores. We begin to fill in the detail.
\n10 row<\/span>– mark the middle of the front of the boot. With respect to it, we make decreases 9 sc, 4 dec, 7 sc (20)
\nDue to the different density of knitting or yarn here and in the future, you may have a different location of dec \/ inc relative to the beginning of the row. Focus on your markers.
\n11 row<\/span>– 7 sc, 4 dec, 5 sc (16)
\n12 row<\/span>– 16 sc (16)
\nWe fasten the thread, leave a long tip for sewing. We knit two parts.
\n\u2800
\nIf you want the minion to stand on its own, and already work with wire frames, then you can use wire in the legs. With its large dimensions, the toy weighs only 700 grams and may well stand on its own two feet. Insert the wire at this stage, then pass it through the beginning of knitting of the trousers.
\n\u2800
\nWe take blue yarn, hook 3 mm. We knit the pants of the jumpsuit.
\n1 row<\/span>– 6 sc in MR (6)
\n2 row<\/span>– 6 inc (12)
\n3 row<\/span>– (1 sc, inc) * 6 times (18)
\n4 row<\/span>– (2 sc, inc) * 6 times (24)
\n5 row<\/span>– 24 sc behind the back wall (24)
\n6 row<\/span>– 24 sc (24)
\n7 row<\/span>– (3 sc, inc) * 6 times (30)
\n8-10 rows<\/span>– 30 sc (30)
\n11 row<\/span>– (4 sc, inc) * 6 times (36)
\n12 row<\/span>– 36 sc (36)
\nClose knitting, leave a long tip for sewing. We knit 2 details.
\n\u2800
\nSewing the boots to the legs.<\/p>\n

\"Crochet<\/p>\n

Arms<\/span><\/h3>\n

We start crocheting with fingers. Black yarn, hook 3 mm.
\n1 row<\/span>– 6 sc in MR (6)
\n2 row<\/span>– 6 inc (12)
\n3-4 rows<\/span>– 12 sc (12)
\n5 row<\/span>– (3 sc, inc)* 3 times (15)
\n6-11 rows<\/span>– 15 sc (15)
\nWe knit three elements. We do not break the thread at the third. First, connect two fingers.
\n12 row<\/span>– 8 sc, attach the second finger, knit 14 sc on it, tie 7 sc on the first (30)
\n13 row<\/span>– 30 sc (30)
\n14 row<\/span>– we attach the third finger 4 sc, the next 7 sc we knit together with 7 sc of the third finger, we knit 19 sc (30)
\n15 row<\/span>– we tie around the perimeter together with the remaining 8 sc of the third finger (31)
\n16 row<\/span>– 29 sc, dec (30)
\n\u2800
\nMaking a wire frame. I am using 1mm wire. Cut off about 60 cm. Form three fingers 5 cm long. For safety and strength, we wrap each finger and brush with masking tape or electrical tape. Insert the frame. We fill our fingers.
\n\u2800
\n17 row<\/span>– (3 sc, dec)* 6 times (24)
\n18 row<\/span>– (2 sc, dec)* 6 times (18)
\n19 row<\/span>– 18 sc (18)
\nWe fill the brush.
\n\u2800
\nFurther, two options are possible:
\n– you can immediately knit the cuff of the glove, and then raise the loops from the 19th row for knitting the hand itself;
\n– you switch to knitting in yellow, and knit the cuff separately and sew on (my version).
\n\u2800
\n20-44 rows – change the color to yellow and knit 18 sc (18), gradually fill, not much.
\nWe close the knitting, we hide the tips. We knit two elements.<\/p>\n

\"Crochet
\n\u2800
\nCuff<\/span><\/h3>\n

We knit with black yarn, crochet hook 3 mm.
\n1 row<\/span>– start with a chain of 19 air loops. Then we knit from the 3rd loop from the hook with increments, as in spiral knitting, but only in rotary rows.
\n2 row<\/span>– 1 sc, inc, (2 sc, inc)* 5 times (24)
\n3 row<\/span>– lifting loop, 2 sc, inc, (3 sc, inc)* 5 times (30)
\n4 row<\/span>– lifting loop, 29 sc (30)
\n\u2800
\nWe knit two parts. We leave the long tip for sewing. We put on the handle, sew in a ring, sew on row 19.
\n\u2800
\nThat’s all for now. The next stage will be the longest, since the torso will already be knitted. The bottom of the jumpsuit and the body are one-piece knitted. Sew on the legs, knit the handles and talk about the hairstyle.<\/p>\n

Body<\/span><\/h3>\n

We start crocheting with blue yarn, crochet hook 3 mm.
\n1 row<\/span>– 7 sc in MR (7)
\n2 row<\/span>– 7 inc (14)
\n3 row<\/span>– (1 sc, inc)*7 times (21)
\n4 row<\/span>– (2 sc, inc)*7 times (28)
\n5 row<\/span>– (3 sc, inc)*7 times (35)
\n6 row<\/span>– (4 sc, inc)*7 times (42)
\n7 row<\/span>– (5 sc, inc)*7 times (49)
\n8 row<\/span>– (6 sc, inc)*7 times (56)
\n9 row<\/span>– (7 sc, inc)*7 times (63)
\n10 row<\/span>– (8 sc, inc)*7 times (70)
\n11 row<\/span>– (9 sc, inc)*7 times (77)
\n12 row<\/span>– (10 sc, inc)*7 times (84)
\n13 row<\/span>– (11 sc, inc)*7 times (91)
\n14 row<\/span>– (12 sc, inc)*7 times (98)
\n15 row<\/span>– (13 sc, inc)*7 times (105)
\n16 row<\/span>– (14 sc, inc)*7 times (112)
\n17 row<\/span>– (15 sc, inc)*7 times (119)
\n18 row<\/span>– (16 sc, inc)*7 times (126)
\n19-22 rows<\/span>– 126 sc (126)<\/p>\n

At this stage, you will need to sew on the legs. I have more knitted in the photo at this point, but it is inconvenient to sew like this. Legs are located close to the center of the minions. The toes of the boots are usually turned outward, but you can set any position. Stuff the legs tightly. After sewing on, mark the center of the front. Since in the future we will need a pocket in the front, I knitted 50 sc under it for the back walls to make it easier to lift the loops. Accordingly, set aside 25 stitches from the center marker to the left and right.<\/p>\n

23 row<\/span>– 5 sc, 50 sc for the back walls, 71 sc (126)
\n24-29 rows<\/span>– 126 sc (126)
\n30 row<\/span>– change the color of the thread to yellow (this must be done in the center of the front so that the transition is closed with a pocket) 126 sc (126)
\n31-48 rows<\/span>– 126 sc (126)<\/p>\n

We fill it gradually.
\nWe attach the handles. We mark their location in the center of the sides. First, as with the third finger, we knit together with the loops of the body, 7 sc on each handle. The third finger of the hand should be from the side of the body.
\n49 row<\/span> – 7 sc together with the first handle, 55 sc, 7 sc together with the second handle, 57 sc (126)
\n50 row<\/span> – we knit along the perimeter with the remaining loops of the hands 11 sc (first handle), 55 sc, 11 sc (second handle), 57 sc (134)
\n51 row<\/span> – 134 sc (134)
\n52 row<\/span> – form the shoulders. On 11 sc pens, we make decreases ((dec, 1 sc)* 3 times, dec), 55 sc, ((dec, 1 sc) 3 times, dec), 57 sc (126)
\n\u2800
\nWe bend the wire at the shoulders, twist the ends together and wrap it with tape. Expand the tip down.
\nWe continue to crocheting the body.<\/p>\n

\"Crochet<\/p>\n

By increasing or decreasing the number of rows between 53 and 76, you can link different minions<\/p>\n

53-76 rows<\/span> – 126 sc (126)
\n77 row<\/span>– (16 sc, dec)* 7 times (119)
\n78-93 rows<\/span> – 119 sc (119)
\n94 row<\/span>– (15 sc, dec)* 7 times (112)
\nWe continue to fiber fill. Tightly so that there are no wrinkles or unevenness.<\/p>\n

95 row<\/span> – 112 sc (112)
\n96 row<\/span>– (14 sc, dec)* 7 times (105)
\n97 row<\/span> – 105 sc (105)
\n98 row<\/span>– (13 sc, dec)* 7 times (98)
\n99 row<\/span> – 98 sc (98)
\n100 row<\/span>– (12 sc, dec)* 7 times (91)
\n101 row<\/span> – 91 sc (91)
\n102 row<\/span>– (11 sc, dec)* 7 times (84)
\n103 row<\/span> – 84 sc (84)
\n104 row<\/span>– (10 sc, dec)* 7 times (77)
\n105 row<\/span> – 77 sc (77)
\n106 row<\/span>– (9 sc, dec)* 7 times (70)
\n107 row<\/span> – 70 sc (70)
\n108 row<\/span>– (8 sc, dec)* 7 times (63)
\n109 row<\/span> – 63 sc (63)
\n110 row<\/span>– (7 sc, dec)* 7 times (56)
\n111 row<\/span>– (6 sc, dec)* 7 times (49)
\n112 row<\/span>– (5 sc, dec)* 7 times (42)<\/p>\n

At this stitch, it’s time to think about your hairstyle. Check the options on the internet:
\n-separate hairs all over the head;
\n-the hairs on the crown in two rows (like mine);
\n-small bunch at the top of the head.
\nIf you want the first option, then you can start attaching the hairs now. Cut the black yarn into lengths. At one end of the segment, make a large knot and attach it to the head with a needle or hook.
\nThe second option can be fixed as well. I did just that at first. But then I changed the yarn to a thinner one and fixed the threads with just knots after knitting was closed.
\nIn the case of the third option, pre-prepare the bundle and secure it when you pull the last 7 loops. Additionally, sew the bundle itself while pulling it together so that it holds better.<\/p>\n

113 row<\/span>– (4 sc, dec)* 7 times (35)
\n114 row<\/span>– (3 sc, dec)* 7 times (28)
\n115 row<\/span>– (2 sc, dec)* 7 times (21)
\n116 row<\/span>– (1 sc, dec)* 7 times (14)
\n117 row<\/span>– 7 dec (7)<\/p>\n

We tighten the remaining loops, fasten the tip, hide it inside the toy.<\/p>\n

\"Crochet<\/p>\n

Overalls<\/span><\/h3>\n

We crocheting with blue yarn, crochet hook 3 mm.
\nLet’s start with the front pocket. We left the front walls of 50 loops on the stomach. Now we crochet the first row along them (then everything is crochet in rotary rows):<\/p>\n

1 row<\/span>– 50 sc (50)
\n2 row<\/span>– lifting loop (ch), 2 skip 40 sc, 2 skip, 1 sc (46)
\n3 row<\/span>– ch, dec, 40 sc, dec, 1 sc (44)
\n4 row<\/span>– ch, dec, 38 sc, dec, 1 sc (42)
\n5 row<\/span>– ch, dec, 36 sc, dec, 1 sc (40)
\n6 row<\/span>– ch, dec, 34 sc, dec, 1 sc (38)
\n7 row<\/span>– ch, dec, 32 sc, dec, 1 sc (36)
\n8 row<\/span>– ch, dec, 30 sc, dec, 1 sc (34)
\n9 row<\/span>– ch, dec, 28 sc, dec, 1 sc (32)
\n10 row<\/span>– ch, dec, 26 sc, dec, 1 sc (30)
\n11 row<\/span>– ch, dec, 24 sc, dec, 1 sc (28)
\n12 row<\/span>– ch, dec, 22 sc, dec, 1 sc (26)
\n13 row<\/span>– ch, dec, 20 sc, dec, 1 sc (24)
\n14-32 rows<\/span>– 24 sc (24)
\nYou can tie the edges of the sc if you want.<\/p>\n

Behind the center of the back on the belt, we also collect 24 sc, knit in rotary rows:
\n1-18 rows<\/span> – 24 sc (24)
\n\u2800
\nStraps. We knit 57 rows of 4 sc. The number of rows you have may be different. Try on as you knit.
\n\u2800
\nWe decorate the front pocket along the perimeter, the back and the straps of the jumpsuit with white thread. I also highlighted the belt with it.<\/p>\n

Small pocket<\/span><\/h3>\n

We collect a chain of 15 air loops. Next, we knit in rotary rows:
\n1-10 rows<\/span>– ch, 14 sc (15)
\n11 row<\/span> – ch, dec, 9 sc, dec, 1 sc (13)
\n12 row<\/span> – 13 sc (13)
\n13 row<\/span> – ch, dec, 7 sc, dec, 1 sc (11)
\n\u2800
\nThe minions have a logo on the pocket. You can view it online. I made it
\nfelt: black circle D20 mm + letter G in blue felt. The letter is glued to the circle, the circle is glued to the pocket. Sew the pocket with white threads.
\n\u2800
\nNow we sew the straps with white thread. Add buttons to the front.
\n\u2800
\nThere were only loops on the belt. I made four of them from chains of air loops.<\/p>\n

I will describe the process of creating exactly my version. But you can look at the pictures and choose any facial expression for your minion. The main parts will be the same, but depending on the chosen expression, you may have a different location of the iris on the hemisphere (gaze direction), eyelid size (open gaze, half-closed eyes, etc.), the presence of a lower eyelid (squinted gaze).<\/p>\n

\"Crochet
\n\u2800
\nEyes<\/span><\/h3>\n

First, we crochet all the necessary parts. The eye consists of a hemisphere, a back cover, an iris (if the size of a safe eye does not suit you) and an eyelid. We start with a hemisphere. We knit in white, hook 3 mm.<\/p>\n

1 row<\/span>– 6 sc in MR (6)
\n2 row<\/span>– 6 inc (12)
\n3 row<\/span>– (1 sc, inc)* 6 times (18)
\n4 row<\/span>– (2 sc, inc)* 6 times (24)
\n5 row<\/span>– (3 sc, inc)* 6 times (30)
\n6 row<\/span>– (4 sc, inc)* 6 times (36)
\n7 row<\/span>– (5 sc, inc)* 6 times (42)
\n8 row<\/span>– (6 sc, inc)* 6 times (48)
\n9-12 rows<\/span>– 48 sc (48)
\nWe knit two parts.<\/p>\n

Back cover. We knit in white, hook 3 mm. We repeat the same from rows 1 to 8. We crochet two parts. We leave the long tip for sewing.
\n\u2800
\nWe knit the irises in the desired color (I have brown) 6 sc in MR, 6 inc. Insert the eye into the center of the iris.
\n\u2800
\nEyelid<\/strong>
\nKnit with yellow yarn, crochet hook 3 mm. The principle of knitting is like that of a cuff, only in this case we subtract the number of sc. My eyelid takes about 1\/4 of the eye. For this option, a chain of 18 sc is enough. If you want to make it more or less, then add \/ subtract 6 loops so that the dec \/ inc are uniform.<\/p>\n

1 row<\/span>– we collect a chain of 19 ch, we begin to knit from the 3rd loop from the hook 17 sc (18)
\n2 row<\/span>-ch, 17 sc (18)
\n3 row<\/span>– ch, dec, (1 sc, dec)* 5 times (12)
\n4-5 rows<\/span>– ch, 11 sc (12)
\n6 row<\/span> – ch, 5 dec, 1 sc (7)
\n7 row<\/span>-ch, 3 dec (4)
\nWe fasten the thread, leave the tip for sewing. We knit two parts.
\n\u2800
\nWe collect the eyes.
\nWe install the safe eye with the iris in the right place. My minion looks up dreamily, so the base of the eye is located between rows 4 and 5. Sew on the eyelids. Slightly covering the iris of the eyelid adds dreaminess. Be careful that the eyes are symmetrical (direction of gaze). Sew on the back cover. At the very end of sewing, we fill the eye.<\/p>\n

Remained rectangles for the frame<\/strong><\/p>\n

We knit with a gray thread, hook 3 mm.
\n1 row<\/span> – we collect a chain of 51 ch, we knit from the 3rd loop from the hook 49 sc (50)
\n2-15 rows<\/span> – rotary rows ch, 49 sc (50)
\n16 row<\/span>– add bumps (BO) 7 sc, (BO, 4 sc)* 8 times, 3 sc (50)
\nBump: the element is performed on the basis of 4 double crochets, which are knitted at one point with unfinished single crochets, collected in one loop into a common top.
\n17-20 rows<\/span> – ch, 49 sc (50)
\nWe knit two parts. We leave the long tip for sewing.<\/p>\n

\"Crochet
\n\u2800
\nFold in half lengthwise, sew. On the other hand, we also make a seam for symmetry. Now we need a 2 liter plastic bottle for inserts into the frame. Cut out a rectangle, insert it into the knitted part (to facilitate insertion, round off the corners on one side of the strip), adjust it in length (cut it off from the rounding side), sew the part into a ring. Trying on the eye.
\nWe repeat everything one more time.
\n\u2800
\nAfter the frame is ready, we try on both eyes, fix their correct position in the frame and sew to it from behind. Moreover, the circles of the frame should be located seams to each other (there are no lumps). Pay attention also to the fact that the frame has different ends.
\n\u2800
\nThe next step is to sew the frames to the body. We fasten them together (we sew along 4-5 sc).
\n\u2800
\nStrap Remaining I used a 20mm wide strap, but you can just tie the cord to the length you want. To attach the cord to the glasses, we crochet two rectangles with a gray thread 8 sc for 6 rows. Fold the rectangle in half across the knit, insert the end of the cord and sew. Sew the opposite side to the frame. We check the length. We also sew the other end of the cord into a rectangle and attach it to the frame on the other side.<\/p>\n

\"Crochet<\/p>\n

Mouth<\/span><\/h3>\n

So, we need 1 mm felt of white, black and red (if you do with the tongue) colors, a smile template, Moment glue gel and a black helium pen or marker. You can draw a smile template yourself or translate it from your computer screen. I added a photo of minions in the carousel to help you. I drew myself, and I had many options In the photo there are three final ones, of which I chose the final one.
\n\u2800
\n1<\/span>. Cut out the main outline from black felt.
\n2<\/span>. Apply white felt on top, outline the edge of the mouth (the outline is visible through the felt) and draw the teeth. If you also have teeth below, then we repeat the same thing. Let’s not forget about symmetry. Cut out.
\n3<\/span>. Cut out a thin strip of red felt, put the lower teeth on it, circle them, draw a semicircle on top. Cut out.
\n4<\/span>. Trying on all the parts. Trim and align the contours.
\n5<\/span>. First we glue the teeth on the black base, then the tongue.
\n6<\/span>. With a helium pen or marker, select the teeth, drawing the interdental lines.
\n7<\/span>. We stick a smile on the body at the required height.<\/p>\n

\"Crochet
\n\u2800
\nThat’s all!
\nIf you still find it difficult, then you can simply cut a thin strip of black felt of the required length and shape and stick it on.
\n\u2800
\nThat’s all. Congratulations !! Your minion is ready!<\/p>\n

Download PDF Pattern<\/span>
\n\"\"<\/a><\/h3>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Hello everyone friends, Today I brought you a very special amigurumi pattern. First of all, I would like to thank the owner of the pattern. The free amigurumi pattern is a bit long, so it may not be ideal for beginners. Minion rush amigurumi pattern, thanks to detailed step by step pattern instructions and visuals […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":3539,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[65,80],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-3538","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-crochet-doll","category-fairy-tale-characters"],"yoast_head":"\nCrochet Minion Rush Free PDF Amigurumi Pattern - 500+ PDF Passo a Passo Amigurumi Receitas<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/amigurumireceitas.com\/en\/crochet-minion-rush-free-pdf-amigurumi-pattern\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Crochet Minion Rush Free PDF Amigurumi Pattern - 500+ PDF Passo a Passo Amigurumi Receitas\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Hello everyone friends, Today I brought you a very special amigurumi pattern. First of all, I would like to thank the owner of the pattern. The free amigurumi pattern is a bit long, so it may not be ideal for beginners. 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